Got this for Chevy Trax 1.4L Turbo, and it fits like OEM. The Trax was getting a couple different CELs, and after some research, turns out it is bad PCV valve built into the valve cover. I had to replace this AND the intake, because the root of the problem seems to be a bad valve in the intake manifold having to do with turbo boost pressures blows out the PCV valve diaphragm. After these were replace, car runs strong again, no more hesitation or excessive oil consumption. Install was pretty easy, with some basic tools it all can be done. I used the the old oil cap, this one looks too generic. It all fits like OE, and looks like OE and there are no leaks. Good product so far.

Fit my 2016 buick encore 1.4 turbo perfectly. I originally intended to only replace the gasket, but opted for the set. Glad I did. I had no idea the valve cover has an internal diaphragm you can't see that can go bad and cause a vacuum leak.

I replaced the Valve cover on my 2012 Chevy Cruze LTZ. After replacing it I checked to see how it was after some driving to realize that the Oil Filler Cap doesn’t seal correctly and leaks oil everywhere. I tried to see if I’d just put it on wrong but couldn’t get it to seal. I also noticed that the caps o-ring seal had melted a little which was odd cause the car had never overheated.

2014 Chevy Cruze started whistling LOUD at the beginning of last week. At first I thought it was a part of a Rage Against the Machine song I was listening to on the radio (LOL!), but alas, it turns out it was coming from the engine compartment.Engage: YouTube Shade tree Mechanic Mode!A bit of google searching and YouTube browsing later, and I was able to diagnose the issue as a bad PCV valve on my 2014 Chevy Cruze LTZ. I was just brushing up near 96K miles, and apparently all the 1.4 L EcoTec engines produced by GM are destined to blow the PCV valve...not a matter of "if" but WHEN. My PCV valve had apparently had enough, so I found this product and it had great ratings and at a good value. I had heard that dealership wanted ~$100 for parts and another couple hundred (~$300) for labor, so I was determined to save the cash...There are plenty of step-by-step videos online that show you exactly how to make this swap. If you have a decent tool set and any mechanical inclination, you CAN do this. It's not that hard...I'd give it a 4/10 on difficulty scale. If I was doing it a 2nd time, it would probably take me less than 40 min. 1st time around it took around 1.5 hrs, but I was really taking my time, too.A few notes of importance:-When prying off the old cover, use a PLASTIC putty knife to free up the old seal. If you use a metal putty knife or scraper, you risk damaging the surface, which would of course lead to later oil leakage and nobody wants that.-To give extra leverage getting the old cover off, insert the PLASTIC putty knife as far as you can, and then use a thin flathead screwdriver ON TOP of the putty knife (so you're putting pressure on the putty knife with the screwdriver and NOT the metal flat mating surface), and gently but firmly pry upwards. That should release the seal and allow you to remove the old cover successfully.-Wipe down the metal mating surface to remove the crankcase oil before seating the new cover & seal. I used isopropyl alcohol and paper towels to get it clean.-Make sure to use Black RTV sealant on the seam of where the crankcase meets the timing belt area. It should be pretty evident where, because there should be the remnants of the old sealant there, which you'll need to scrape off (with that plastic putty knife!) before applying the new black RTV.-GET YOUR TORQUE CORRECT. The specs for this are 71 INCH LBS (not FT LBS!), which isn't a ton of pressure - just past hand tight. Don't guess on this, and definitely don't over-torque it. IF YOU OVER TORQUE you're destined for an expensive trip to the mechanic.-Blow out the bolt holes with compressed air to get any oil runoff out of the threaded area. Oil is not compressible, and will result in you over-torqueing the bolts, leading to unequal seal and eventual oil leakage, and that expensive mechanic trip as mentioned above...-If you need to reset the Check-Engine Light, just remove the negative cable from the battery, and go open the drivers door and press the brake pedal for 30 sec. That will drain all the stored electric energy, and reset the CEL. Make sure to follow the instructions on the dash after you start back up...the Chevy Cruze makes you roll down the drivers window and then back up (odd), but that gets everthing back to normal operating condition.

I was very pleased with this product. Fit my 2012 Chevy Cruze perfectly. Stopped all oil leaks. Was an easy install and cheaper than AutoZone. Great quality. Very pleased with my purchase. Highly recommend

Se adapta perfecto al auto, es de muy buena calidad. Funciona perfectamente

Usable