I don't ever write reviews. But this made me upset. This is a warning for everyone to be careful. The quality is not good. I got this oil cooler less than a year ago and it started to leak again. Badly. A piece came apart and it's gushing coolant. Maybe if you get an aluminum version, I'd probably be better.

Just get the one piece aluminum upgraded version. But worked enough to get rid of the van.

Excelente producto de calidad no tuve ningún problema en la instalación

Got got this for someone's 2014 Challenger. Their oil pressure sensor had gone out and it was about 60% the cost off this oil cooler (which also came with the new sensors) and since I had to go in that far anyway to replace it, and knowing the history of these coolers to crack and fail, it just seemed sensible to go this route and replace the whole thing with the sensors.I like this had all you need, the gaskets, the seals and even a new oil filter.It's not a difficult job, but it is involved. There are plenty of videos on YT you can watch to see the process. But if you are skilled enough to change your own brake pads you could do this job. No specialized tools are needed. I recommend watching some of these videos before you do it because a couple of the intake manifold bolts you have to remove are near impossible to find if you don't know where to look.One tip I'd offer is drain off the coolant before you disassemble it. If you drain it into something clean you can save it and put it back in rather than having to buy new. The reason is, if you don't, because the coolant reservoir is higher than this cooler, everything above the reservoir will drain down and come out and fill the top valley of the engine and get into the oil ports too. Then you will certainly HAVE to change the oil (although I'd recommend just changing the oil when you replace this part anyway). If you decide to go this route, and not drain the coolant first, DO NOT start that engine until you have changed the oil. Don't want to be running churned oil/coolant mixture through your engine.The front tube on this unit that is lower than the rest of it has to go down into the hole. Some lubrication in it helps a lot. I used a silicone based spray. Getting that to set just right and getting your bolts started is the most difficult part of this entire process. It's quite finicky to get it lined up right, and if you don't go slowly and careful and take care to make sure the seals stay in place, it will most certainly leak. When you go to tighten them down, do each a little a time in a crisscross fashion frequently changing from one bolt to the next until you have it snugged down, or else you risk it going down crooked and either not sealing well, or damaging the seals. Just pay careful attention, take your time, and put some lube on the tube that has to go in the hole and it will be fine.There is a torque specification for these bolts in inch pounds. If you don't have an inch/pound torque wrench you can get one many places for less than $20 and it's a nice thing to have in your tool box. All of this is plastic, you do NOT want to over tighten.This also comes with the blue intake gaskets. I compared them to some FelPro branded ones I had from another 3.6 job, and they look very comparable. Just pick the old ones out, clean out the slots and stick them in. Super simple. I've rebuilt a lot of stuff and I had no concerns using the gaskets that came with this kit.Once it's all back together, change your oil if you are doing that now and be sure to refill that coolant and you should be good to go.The girl that owned the Challenger I did this on has been driving it about 1000 miles now since with no issues at all and it's been 100F days around here.

el producto esta bien, solo que tiene problemas de manufactura. no podia ser ensamblado porque la medida es milesimas mas grande, tube que modificarlo lijando.

It didn't match on my Amazon search. But it measured the same as oem original. I got it in less than 24hrs from ordering. The water flow cartridge in the bottom of original had a seal rip. I tried repairing it with silicone and failed. Then I epoxied it, and thought it was done. It lasted 6 days and came apart with coolant leak. I will let you know if I have problems with this kit.Update July 25 2022: It's been over 3 months now. I pressed hard on the gas in the beginning and got a little oil leakage the first week. I've kept an eye on it and have not had any problems since. I really recommend this part for whoever needs it. It has been holding great. Just treat it gentle in the beginning.

Took my 2012 Durango Citadel to a local shop after noticing a very small coolant leak. It was reaching a point where I'd have to fill the radiator every week or so to prevent overheating. The shop said the problem was this Oil Cooler "Adapter" Filter Housing... They said it was about $250 in labor to replace the part but they couldn't find it locally anywhere except the dealer. And the dealer wanted more than $400 for the part alone. So I sprung into action looking online. Found this one on Amazon and confirmed it was compatible with my year/model and also matched up the manufacturer part #. The online part cost was only $108 (with gaskets)--a huge savings. I ordered it and arrived the next day. I immediately delivered it the repair shop. They called me the next day, said the part matched up, installed, and appears to work great! Total repair job, parts & labor, was $400 dollars. That's a little less than the dealer wanted, FOR THE PART ALONE. I have driven the Durango now for 4 days since we got it back. Everything is working great! Highly recommend this part for you... don't be a "dealer victim", save the money!!!